I’ve seen my fair share of mountain towns, but nothing prepared me for the stillness, the raw beauty, and the pure sense of isolation that greeted me in Thethi. Tucked away in the Albanian Alps, this tiny village feels like a secret that locals are almost reluctant to share—like it’s too special to be spoiled.
There’s only one road that takes you into the valley, a winding series of switchbacks from Shkodër that make your heart race with every curve. For a while, it feels like the path disappears into the clouds.
And then suddenly, you drop down into this otherworldly place surrounded by jagged peaks, deep forests, and the kind of silence that hums in your ears.
Finding Thethi: A Place Where Time Stopped
Reaching Thethi felt like crossing into another century. Sure, you’ll find guesthouses with Wi-Fi, warm showers, and the occasional espresso machine, but there’s also a františkán-style church from 1892, families baking bread in clay ovens, and a sense of self-sufficiency that’s rare to see in Europe anymore.
The village itself sits in a bowl, hugged tightly by the Prokletije mountains—locals call them the “Accursed Mountains,” but the only curse I encountered was having to leave. The people here are kind, proud, and fiercely attached to their traditions. They live by the rhythm of nature, and it’s easy to fall into that pace once you arrive.
One of the first things I did? I switched on my VPN connection with Surfshark. Not because there’s a privacy risk in Thethi (far from it), but because I’m always uploading photos, checking flight prices, and keeping tabs on home.
Albania’s internet is decent, but public WiFi even in guesthouses isn’t always secure—and I’ve learned the hard way to never trust an open network when traveling.
Where to Stay (Without Losing the Feeling of Thethi)
You won’t find any mega resorts or concrete hotels here, thank God. What you will find are charming wooden guesthouses, often run by multi-generational families who will greet you with warm bread, local raki, and stories about wolves or lost hikers.
I found my stay through Booking.com, and it couldn’t have been more seamless. Places like Bujtina Polia or Guesthouse Marashi offer just enough comfort without breaking the spell of the wilderness around you. Expect stone walls, creaky wooden floors, and waking up to cowbells outside your window.
💡 Tip: Book early if you’re coming between June and September—rooms get snapped up fast.
Hiking the Valbona Pass: A Trail I’ll Never Forget
If there’s one reason to come to Thethi, it’s this: the legendary Valbona Pass hike. This roughly 17-kilometer trail connects the two most iconic valleys in Albania, and while it’s become popular in recent years, it still retains the kind of untouched magic that seasoned hikers dream of.
The trail begins either in Valbona or Thethi (I did it from Thethi), and while it’s challenging—especially the 1,800-meter ascent—it rewards you with vistas that rival the Dolomites or the Rockies. Glacial rivers snake through pine valleys, goats clamber along cliff sides, and somewhere near the top, if you’re lucky, you’ll spot a golden eagle soaring above.
“I thought I knew mountains,” a German hiker told me over coffee at the top, “but this… this is different.” I couldn’t agree more.
If you’re planning this trek, I highly recommend booking your transport and accommodation together using Expediaor Agoda. They often offer bundled deals that make logistics way easier in remote areas like this.
Blood Feuds and Stone Towers: A Glimpse Into Albania’s Dark Past
Now here’s something I didn’t expect: Thethi has its own tower built specifically for hiding men from blood revenge killings.
It’s called the Kulla e Ngujimit, or “Lock-In Tower,” and it dates back more than 400 years. Men threatened by a gjakmarrja (blood feud) would hide in here, sometimes for months, until peace was brokered or—brace yourself—another family member was killed in their place.
Visiting this tower was surreal. You step inside and feel the weight of centuries-old justice. Small slit windows, stone walls, no furniture—just the memory of fear. The local guide, a soft-spoken man with silver hair, told us: “Some families still deal with this. Especially in the mountains. Not everyone trusts the courts.”
It was the kind of history lesson that no textbook could ever teach.
The Sound of Water: Grunas Waterfall and the Canyon Below
About two kilometers from the heart of Thethi, there’s a path that winds through tall grass, crosses a wooden bridge, and leads you straight into one of the most peaceful corners of the Balkans—the Grunas Waterfall.
This 25-meter cascade crashes into a tiny turquoise pool, fed only by melting snow from the high peaks above. And I swear, it’s one of the few places I’ve been where the only sound you hear is water, wind, and your own breath.
Stand still long enough and you’ll catch a rainbow forming in the mist.
What makes this spot even more special is what lies just below it—Grunas Canyon. Imagine a gorge that’s only two meters wide in some places but plunges sixty meters deep. Crossing it via a narrow wooden footbridge gave me full-body chills. The water below was so clear you could see pebbles at the bottom, even from that height.
If you’re looking to plan the perfect hiking circuit in Thethi, I recommend using Momondo to find flexible flight options into Albania—either through Tirana or Podgorica in Montenegro. From there, it’s a winding drive, but trust me, it’s worth every curve.
The Blue Eye of Thethi: Cold, Beautiful, and Brutally Refreshing
Just when I thought nothing could top that waterfall, I found myself standing in front of the Blue Eye of Kaprre—a natural spring so bright and blue it looks edited in real life. The water pours out of the rocks, ice-cold and glowing like a piece of polished stone.
Getting there is a bit of a workout. You pass through the small village of Ndërlysaj, cross rocky fields and charming stone bridges, and finally reach a pool that looks like something out of a fantasy film.
Locals call it Syri i Kaltër—but don’t confuse it with the other Blue Eye near Sarandë. This one is higher up, wilder, and much colder. I dared to dip my toes in. A few brave travelers dove in completely and came out gasping.
Here’s a little advice: don’t go on weekends in peak season unless you’re okay with crowds. If you want that picture-perfect shot of an empty pool, aim for early morning or shoulder season. I booked my entire trip with Kiwi.com, which made connecting through lesser-known airports super easy.
What’s on the Menu? Local Food You’ll Crave Later
There’s something about mountain food that always feels more real. Maybe it’s the altitude, maybe it’s the effort that goes into every dish, or maybe it’s just the fact that people here cook like their grandmothers taught them.
Breakfast in Thethi was usually homemade corn bread, white cheese, thick yogurt, and strong coffee—often served with a shot of raki. Yes, even at 9 a.m.
Dinner was heartier. Think slow-cooked lamb (tavë kosi), potato-laced polenta (kaçamak), flaky cheese-filled pies (byrek), and my personal favorite: flia, a multi-layered pancake casserole with butter and sour cream.
“The secret is the fire,” my host told me one night as she stirred a pot over glowing embers. “Electric oven can’t make flia. Only wood.” I believed her.
Staying Connected (But Not Too Much)
As peaceful as Thethi is, I still needed to stay online—checking bookings, updating friends, and downloading maps for offline hikes. Internet coverage here is decent in the center of the village, but patchy elsewhere.
That’s why I relied heavily on NordVPN, especially when hopping on public Wi-Fi in cafes or guesthouses. Besides encryption, it let me access my usual streaming platforms at night, even when Albania’s default region made that tricky.
If you’re planning to work remotely even a little, I’d also recommend checking out ExpressVPN—it handled streaming Netflix US from a hammock in the mountains without buffering.
| My 5 Best VPN for Albania | Offer + Discount | URL |
|---|---|---|
| NordVPN | 77% off + 3 months free | Try NordVPN |
| ExpressVPN | 73% off + 6 months free | Try ExpressVPN |
| SurfShark | 87% off + 2 months free | Try SurfShark |
| CyberGhost | 83% off + 2 months free | Try CyberGhost |
| PIA VPN | 82% off + 2 months free | Try PIA VPN |
Why Thethi Stays With You Long After You Leave
There’s no nightclub in Thethi. No ATMs. No souvenir shops pumping the same magnets and keychains. And that’s exactly what makes it unforgettable.
The people here remember the land. They don’t chase trends—they preserve stories. They farm the old way, cook the old way, and in some cases, still follow laws older than most countries.
You come here expecting pretty views. You leave with a kind of quiet in your soul that you didn’t know you needed.
Thinking of Visiting Thethi?
Here’s what I’d suggest to make it easy:
- Find your flight with Kiwi
- Book your stay on Booking or Hotels.com
- Secure your connection with NordVPN or Surfshark
- Bring cash. Most places don’t accept cards
- Don’t overplan. Let the village slow you down
Thethi Isn’t Just a Destination – It’s a Memory
If you’re someone who travels for meaning, not just for photos, Thethi is the kind of place that imprints itself on you. The cold water, the quiet trails, the grandmother who brings you soup without asking—it all becomes part of your story.
And even now, writing this from my city apartment, I can still hear the wind echoing down that valley.
